Val Romana - lower sector

The Val Romana is one of the many unspoilt and less visited corners of the Julian Alps. The valley is flanked by forests and numerous limestone and dolomite walls. On some of these walls, located near the bottom of the valley, the Italian soldiers of the Brigade Alpina Julia have equipped some interesting cliffs for climbing. The first one you reach in the lower sector, called Val Romana, is certainly the most interesting and popular cliff. The itineraries traced by the Alpini offer medium-low difficulty and offer a fun and at times athletic climbing on vertical dolomite cliffs full of handholds. On the overhang in the left sector of the wall were recently equipped ferrate of high difficulty. The routes start from a wide and comfortable ledge. But situated above a high and steep ferrata: therefore not recommendable with children.

Access
From Tarvisio follow the state road to Fusine and Kranjska Gora and after 2 km, before the railway overpass, turn right following the signs for Rutte Piccolo and Ortigara. After passing the houses of Rutte Piccolo, proceed in the forest, along the paved road to Ortigara, until the entrance of the Val Romana where at the beginning of a forest road with no transit you can park the car (5 km from Tarvisio). Continue to walk along the forest road that goes up the valley on the right of the Rio Bianco. After crossing the river, the road continues uphill on the opposite side of the valley, until you can see the cliff. A trail allows you to climb in a few minutes to the large ledge at the base of the wall (25 minutes from the parking lot).

General information:

• Orientation: West
• Altitude: 1,000 m
• Recommended period: from June to October
• Slope: Overhang and vertical wall
• Approach: 25 minutes
• Difficulty of the routes of the cliff:

4    5    6a    6b    6c    7a    7b    7c    8a    8b    8c    proj.
2   14   7      1      1      1       1       0       0      0       0     4

This route is included in the TOP 20 FREE CLIMBING guide, made in collaboration with Tabacco Maps, and can be purchased here
 

• Take a rest before start climbing the cliff
• Always use a protective helmet
• Use suitable and approved climbing equipment 
• Check the status of the equipment and anchors
• Knowledge of climbing techniques as well as belaying- and abseiling techniques
• Respect the natural environment and do not leave any waste behind

Minors and beginners must be accompanied and followed by experienced climbers

CLIMBING IS A POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS SPORT. THE ROUTES OF THE CLIFFS DESCRIBED HERE ARE THE RESULT OF INDIVIDUAL AND FREE INTERVENTIONS, CARRIED OUT ON THE INITIATIVE OF INDIVIDUAL CLIMBERS. THE CLIMBERS THEMSELVES, WHERE THEY CONSIDER IT NECESSARY, SHALL ALSO MAINTAIN THE EQUIPMENT. CLIMBING IS THEREFORE RESTRICTED TO EXPERIENCED PERSONS, AND THE ASSESSMENT OF THE STATE OF CONSERVATION AND RELIABILITY OF EQUIPMENT ON THE WALL REMAINS THE RESPONSIBILITY OF EACH USER. AS A RESULT, EACH CLIMBER ASSUMES ALL THE RISKS AND POTENTIAL CONSEQUENCES ASSOCIATED WITH THE PRACTICE OF CLIMBING, WITHOUT EXCEPTION. ALL THE INFORMATION REPORTED IS THE RESULT OF IN-DEPTH RESEARCH, BUT MUST NEVERTHELESS BE INSPECTED FROM TIME TO TIME, ON THE SPOT, BEFORE UNDERTAKING ANY CLIMBING. NO LIABILITY SHALL BE ASSUMED FOR ERRORS AND INACCURACIES.