From Trieste to Duino towards the via Francigena: a walk

With the arrival of spring, the desire to spend more time in the open air returns. Walking for me is one of the best ways to do this. Only in this way can I appreciate the value of time and evaluate and have respect for the distances between places. I’m sure that going on foot, and doing it slowly, helps bring out the best thoughts and makes us more optimistic. For Rousseau it was impossible to think and find inspiration if not by walking: “If I sit down to write nothing comes to mind,” he said. The same must have been felt by the creators of the "Visions in Motion" chairless film school chairs. The goal: to walk the approximately 75 km separating Trieste from Aquileia in 4 days on foot. Step by step always close to the sea, crossing the Isola della Cona Nature Reserve and the town of Grado, they sought ideas and stimuli for a short film dedicated to the journey.

It was a wonderful initiative in which I participated for a day, walking the 28 km of the first stage from Opicina to Duino which I describe here. The directors, Matteo Oleotto, Alessandro Rossetto, Giulio Kirchmayr, coordinator of the project and the president of the Mattador association, Pietro Caenazzo, accompanied the two winners of the Mattador international award (http://www.premiomattador.it/mattador/), Ludovica Mantovan (winner for the second year in a row) and Isabella Aquino, in this adventure.

They will now have to make their documentaries, summing up the experience lived in 4 days as pilgrims in a few minutes. Because a pilgrim is he who seeks and walks far from home. And they both come from far away: Ludovica from Venice and Isabella from Avellino. We walk in the fog. Of course. It's spring, but as often happens, the month of March gives us surprises. I barely glimpse the Obelisk at Opicina. From here starts the strada Vicentina also called Napoleonica, which in the case of good weather, offers breathtaking views of the Gulf of Trieste. (Http://www.fvglivexperience.it/2017/02/28/trieste-strada-napoleonica/) Even though I cannot see the sea, I am so close to it that I can smell its scent. In this surreal atmosphere, step by step we head towards the village of Prosecco. I am at the end of the group, but I realise I'm not last. Out of the fog, I see a silhouette emerge: it is Ludovica. “Everything ok?”, I ask her. “Yes, thanks, Michele. This fog is fantastic! I stopped to take some pictures. I find a source of inspiration in this climate”.

The young Isabella also does not seem worried by the lack of landscape and says it's nice to be able to play with the "see-cannot see” aspects that this first part of the route gives us. When you start a journey, whether it's just a few miles or many days, human relationships are favoured and you often find yourself greeting and talking to strangers. Giulio and Matteo are great believers in this way of doing school: “Working together while walking. Because walking breaks down the hierarchies and allows a more open and calm comparison between teachers and pupils.

Exchanges of ideas and opinions are favoured and this is very important for us.” And I can only agree with them. When we reach the Tiziana Weiss path, also known as the sage path, Pietro tells me that we are following an ancient pilgrims’ route called via Flavia, which connected Trieste to other Italian routes, such as the famous Via Francigena and Via Postumia, as well as the new Cammino Celeste which crosses the whole of Friuli from south to north. (Http://www.fvglivexperience.it/2017/11/16/cammino-celeste-sportivamente/). This is why it is important to connect Aquileia to Trieste. Once arrived in Aquileia then, the traveller is spoiled for choice. The search for a suitable route was not easy. Inevitably, due to the geographical characteristics of the territory, we must pass through towns and villages and sometimes even, for a few metres, some busy roads. “There is no map yet, but it will be created very soon”, says Pietro.

The route is practically all almost flat and does not present any difficulty. The only effort I can feel is that of the weight of the backpack. Now the fog has thinned out and I can finally admire the spectacular view that these paths offer. Surrounded by a variety of vegetation (from karst vegetation high up to the Mediterranean varieties as you get closer to the sea), Giulio tells me that many centuries ago these lands were planted with vines. And the Roman gourmets who knew about wine, already more than 2 millennia ago, produced a wine of excellence here.

At the beginning of the nineteenth century, unfortunately, the need for labour for the port of Trieste, led to the inhabitants of the area neglecting their vineyards, which over time became overgrown by the current vegetation. However, even today, there is no lack of good wine in these parts, including Terrano. (http://www.fvglivexperience.it/2018/03/14/teranum-vini-rossi-del-carso-degustare-terrano-trieste/). And just as I “saw” the Bohemian poet Rainer Maria Rilke while he was out strolling walking on his path (http://www.fvglivexperience.it/2017/08/29/sentiero-rilke-trieste/) which we will soon be reaching, I cannot help thinking about the ancient Romans. I imagine them walking the same road that I’m treading at this moment, and in place of the backpacks I see baskets full of fine grapes. Perhaps I’m hungry? Maybe. We could not stop in a better place to have our packed lunch and lighten the backpack. We are at the beginning of the Rilke path, near the Sistiana tourist office.

From here, the view of the Gulf of Trieste sweeps from one side of the Adriatic to the other, from the bay below us to the Croatian coast. A joy for the eyes. Here we are able to satisfy our stomachs, but also the spirit. After following the entire trail, we finally cross the center of Duino and take another convenient path that leads to the Villaggio del Pescatore and the Timavo springs. If you come here, go and say hello to Antonio, the biggest dinosaur ever discovered in Italy. The path crosses a palaeontological site. Now the long walk is about to end, but right at the end I discover something extraordinary. A true art-historical gem completely immersed in the natural scenery. Here at San Giovanni di Duino, near the springs of one of the shortest rivers in Europe, the Timavo, stands the small church of San Giovanni in Tuba.

I absolutely recommend a visit (open on Thursdays from 10 am to noon, but better to inquire first). Here’s a curious detail: if you hear a trumpet sound while you are here, it may be time to say goodbye to friends and relatives. You are in a special place on planet Earth. A legend says that it is right here on the Day of Judgement, before the universal flood, that an angel will sound his trumpet. It will only happen in three other places in the world.

Tired but satisfied, we head towards the village of Medeazza where this long walk ends. It's almost time for dinner and I think that there is no better way to enjoy the typical products of the area, accompanied by a good glass of wine from the Carso, than to go to an osmiza. In this way, I can greet my fellow adventurers who will return to the next day in good cheer (and how envious I am!).

This long walk also satisfied the two young video makers who have come out enriched by this experience. After all, walking is also this: being in contact with nature, feeling tiredness and joy, being in company and discovering new things in the world, with its stories and legends. Even in those places where, we who live there, believe we already know everything. This is what walking means for me. Now I'm just waiting to see the work of Ludovica and Isabella. I'm sure I'll have much more to learn and other new stimuli to get me on my feet in FVG. Notes: Km 28; flat trail also suitable for mountain biking.