Clap Varmost - Ferrata Adventure Climb Varmost

The Clap Varmost surmounts the Tagliamento valley and dominates all the hamlets of Forni di Sopra with a superb 360-degree view. The summit is easily reached from the north side of the mountain covered with woods, while all the others are characterized by steep rocky walls. On the south wall the Municipality of Forni di Sopra built in 2007 a daring ferrata, fully equipped with steps and safety steel ropes. The climbing route is divided into two parts: the first, with a suspension bridge, is also suitable for beginners (provided they have no fear of heights!); the second, longer and more athletic, is reserved for the most experienced and trained climbers. For beginners, it is highly recommended to be accompanied by an alpine guide. You can rent the ferrata set (harness, ferrata kit equipped with double carabiners, breaking device, and helmet) at the mountain hut Som Picol.

Approach
From Forni di Sopra, using the first section of the Varmost chairlift, or on foot along the unpaved path that starts from the locality Chianeit, we reach the refuge Som Picol (1400 m). Near the mountain station of the chairlift begins a steep path in the woods that in about ten minutes leads to the base of the wall of Clap Varmost (1 hour walk from Chianeit).
The via ferrata
We start the ferrata descending a few meters to the right and then we cross a wooden-walkway to reach a crack in the rock. Entering the rock ravine, the climb begins a few meters on the left wall and then, via a ladder, we reach the peak of the top of the first part of the Clap Varmost. From here, across a suspension bridge, which is one of the most exciting points of the route, we reach the base of the dizzying edge of the Clap Varmost.  Continuing uphill, we must first overcome a long vertical section equipped with metal brackets and then, with a series of oblique crossings, athletic and demanding, we proceed upwards the last overhanging section of the wall. Reached the steep grassy slopes, we climb for a long time, but with less difficulty, always following the ropes, up to the summit of Clap Varmost, here is a large cross with a book that collects the impressions of other climbers (1h 30’ from the start).
Descent
Descend on the north side along a marked track through the steep forest to a wide meadow saddle. From here, following the CAI 207 trail near the skislopes, return to the Som Picol Refuge (30’).
Descent
Descend on the north side along a marked track through the steep forest to a wide meadow saddle. From here, following the CAI 207 trail near the skislopes, return to the Som Picol Refuge (30’).

The route can also be used by children, for whom we recommend a minimum age of 12 years and the accompaniment of a mountain guide.
 

Technical data:

• Starting point: Refuge Som Picol (altitude 1.400 m) or locality Chianeit (1.030 m altitude)
• End point: Clap Varmost (1.754 m)
• Ascent altitude difference: 60 m from Som Picol; 470 m from Chianeit - 230 m ferrata
• Walking time: 2 hours from Som Picol and descent 30 minutes
• Cartography: Tabacco Map 1:25000 sheet No. 02 - Forni di Sopra - Ampezzo - Sauris - Alta Val Tagliamento
• Difficulty: D - Very difficult

We recommend the purchase of a hiking map (Tabacco Map: Sheet 02 Forni di Sopra - Ampezzo - Sauris - Alta Val Tagliamento).

This route is included in the TOP 20 guide, produced in collaboration with Casa Editrice Tabacco, available here .