Technical data:
- First climbers: S. De Infanti and W. Cucci, 1979
- Difficulty: 4c max
- Length: 250 m
- Duration: 2-2.30 hours
- Peak altitude: 1,866 m
- Cartography: Tabacco Map 1:25000 sheet No. 09 - Carnic Alps - Central Carnia
- Material: normal mountaineering equipment; hammer and nails not specifically needed, possibly some quickdraws.
- The normal mountaineering equipment consists of:
- Individual equipment (harness, helmet, shoes and belayer/descender)
- 2x60m half ropes
- Hammer and a bunch of nails
- Quickdraws (1 set nuts + 1 set friends)
- 1 expresset (at least 10)
- climbing loops and carabiners for belaying and abseiling
Description:
The route is very easy to follow due to the almost complete equipment with bolts. The most challenging passage, a short vertical section, is located on the second length. Then follow a nice series of cracks on the smooth, steep, and solid wall of the west edge.
Descent
From the end of the rocks follow a steep track that climbs between dense pine forest, overcomes an exposed section equipped with a steel handrail and enters a war track coming from the top of Pal Piccolo. Along this road, towards the right, you can easily descend to Pass Monte Croce (1h 15’).
GPS coordinates: 33T 0342742; 5163123
Scale of mountaineering difficulties
The evaluations are carried out considering the mountain in good weather conditions and with a physical and psychological preparation suitable for the chosen level. The scale used is the one officially recognized by the UIAA (International Union of Mountaineering Associations); the scale designed by W. Welzenbach in 1925. The difficulties are assessed in free climbing, e.g., without the use of artificial means for progression. Each grade may have a further subdivision higher (+) or lower (-).
I First grade
It’s the easiest kind of climbing. Often there is a trace of passage between the rocks, but it is already necessary to choose the support for the feet; the hands frequently use the handholds to maintain balance. It’s not suitable for people with vertigo.
II Second grade
Here real climbing begins, that requires the movement of a limb at a time and a proper setting of the movements. Holds and supports are still abundant.
III Third grade
The rock structure, already steeper or even vertical, offers more handholds and supports and can already require the use of force. Typically, the passages are not solved yet in an obliged matter.
IV Fourth grade
Handholds and supports become even more rare and/or small. It requires a good climbing technique applied to the various rock structures (chimneys, cracks, edges, etc.), as well as a certain degree of specific training.
V Fifth grade
Holds and supports are very rare and small. Climbing becomes delicate (slabs, etc.) or hard (by opposition or interlocking in slits and chimneys). Usually requires the prior examination of the passage.
VI Sixth grade
Handholds and/or supports are small and arranged so as to require a particular combination of movements well studied. The rocky structure may force you to climb a very delicate of very hard where overhanging. Requires special training and considerable strength in the arms and hands. It represents extreme classic climbing.
VII Seventh grade
There are handholds and/or supports very small and widely spaced. It requires a sophisticated training with particular development of finger strength, skill in balancing and grip techniques. This is where modern climbing begins.
Approach:
From Pass Monte Croce Carnico briefly follow the signs to Pal Piccolo. Leave the war track almost immediately to follow the left trail towards the base of the wall that leads to the beginning of the ferrata – there is a starting nail and arrow on the rock with the word "Spigolo", which means edge (10 minutes to approach).
